girl friday/lunch box culottes sew-along

Welcome to the first day of the Girl Friday/Lunch Box Culottes sew-along! Whether you're working on the Girl Friday Culottes or the Lunch Box Culottes, we'll be following the pattern step-by-step. Liesl's patterns are often described as sewing lessons packed into an envelope. If there's a technique you're not familiar with yet, don't worry—everything will be explained clearly.  Today, we'll start by stitching the darts, putting the culottes together, and creating the pleats. Let's dive in, shall we? ### Getting Started First, transfer all the markings and apply interfacing to the wrong sides of the fabric pieces according to the pattern instructions. ### Stitching the Darts (Only for Girl Friday Culottes) To close the darts on the back pieces, fold one culottes back along the dart's centerline, right sides together, aligning the marked dart legs. Pin and stitch along the aligned dart markings, backstitching at the widest part but not at the tip. Instead, leave thread tails several inches long and knot them together to secure the thread at the dart's point. This reduces bulk and prevents puckering. Repeat this process for the second culottes-back piece. Press the darts flat to set the stitches, then press them toward the rise (crotch curve).   ### Assembling the Culottes 1. Pin one front culottes piece to one back piece, right sides together, and stitch the inseam with a 1/2” seam. Finish the seam allowances and press them open. Repeat with the second set of front and back pieces. 2. Next, pin the two culottes halves together, right sides facing, matching the raw edges, inseams, and notches. Stitch the rise (crotch) with a 1/2” seam. Stitch a second time just inside the first line, starting at the front notch and ending at the double back notches. This strengthens the rise at the stress point. Press the seams to one side and finish the seam allowances.   ### Creating the Pleats 1. For the center-front inverted box pleat, pin the two front halves together at the waist, matching the pleat lines and dots. Stitch along the pleat line, stopping and locking or backstitching at the lower dot. 2. Separate the two fronts, pin the pleat-seam to the rise-seam, press, then baste the top of the pleat with a 3/8” seam to hold it temporarily. Repeat the same process for the center-back inverted box pleat. 3. For the second set of pleats on the front, match and pin the dotted lines to one side of the center-front box pleats. Stitch along the pleat line, pressing the pleat toward the pocket extension. Baste the pleats to the top of the culottes with a 3/8” seam. That’s it for today! If you have any questions about these steps, feel free to ask in the comments. Join us tomorrow for day two, where we’ll tackle attaching the pockets, inserting the zipper, stitching the side seams, and finishing the pockets. Are you ready for day two of the Girl Friday/Lunch Box Culottes sew-along? Yesterday, we worked on the darts and pleats. Today, we’ll be attaching the pockets, inserting the zipper, stitching the side seams, and finishing the pockets. Let’s get started! ### Attaching the Pockets 1. Pin one pocket to a pocket extension on the front culottes, right sides together, matching notches and aligning raw edges. Stitch with a 1/2” seam, backstitching at both ends. Press the pocket away from the culottes and finish the seam allowances. 2. For the Lunch Box Culottes, repeat to stitch the second pocket to the other side of the front culottes and attach the other two pockets to the back. For the Girl Friday Culottes, repeat to stitch the second pocket to the other side of the front culottes and attach the third pocket to the wearer’s right side of the back culottes. 3. For the **Girl Friday Culottes only**, on the wearer’s left side of the back culottes, align and pin the fourth pocket piece (prepared with interfacing). Stitch from the bottom edge of the pocket extension to the dot, backstitching at both ends. Baste the remaining portion of the pocket above the large dot to prepare it for the zipper. ### Inserting the Zipper (For Girl Friday Culottes Only) 1. Mark horizontally across the seam allowances of the wearer’s back left pocket 1/2” from the top edge of the pocket extension. 2. Turn the culottes to the right side and draw a line 1/4” on either side of the basted seam, connecting the two lines at the large dot. 3. Turn the culottes to the wrong side and center the zipper tape, face down, over the basted seam allowances. Baste the zipper in place temporarily. 4. On the right side, remove the basting stitches from the zipper seam, leaving the pocket sewn just below the large dot. Topstitch along the drawn lines, pivoting at the bottom of the line to stitch across the zipper. Tomorrow, we’ll continue with stitching the side seams and finishing the pockets. We've reached the third and final day of the Girl Friday/Lunch Box Culottes sew-along. Today, we’ll be finishing up the culottes. Let’s get started! ### Applying the Waistband (Girl Friday Culottes Method) 1. Sew a basting line 1/2” from the long edge of the waistband. Fold and press the fabric to the wrong side along the basting line. 2. Fold the waistband in half, right sides together, and stitch the short ends with a 1/2” seam. Trim the ends to 1/4”. 3. Turn the waistband right-side out and press. 4. Pin the waistband to the culottes, matching notches and stitching with a 1/2” seam. Trim the seam allowances to 1/4” and press them up. Fold the waistband over the seam allowances to the outside and pin it to cover the stitching. Edge-stitch along the fold. ### Attaching the Waistband (Lunch Box Culottes Method) 1. Fold the waistband in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press a crease. Sew a basting line 1/2” from one long edge. 2. Pin the short ends together and join them with a 1/2” seam. Press the seam allowances open and re-fold the pressed edge. 3. Pin the waistband to the culottes, matching notches, and stitch with a 1/2” seam. 4. Trim the seam allowances, press them up, and fold the waistband over the seam allowances to the right side. Pin and edge-stitch the folded edge to form a casing for the elastic. 5. Measure the child’s waist, cut the elastic, and insert it through the casing. Stitch the ends of the elastic securely. ### Finishing the Culottes 1. For the Girl Friday Culottes, stitch buttonholes or attach a hook and eye. For the Lunch Box Culottes, remove the basting stitches at the side seams. 2. Hem the culottes by folding and pressing twice, cinching the top of the hem, and edgestitching. You're done! Thanks for joining us. Please share photos of your completed culottes in the appropriate Flickr groups—we'd love to see what you've made. [Image Placeholder] Happy sewing!

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