Chinese models called "goods"

It seems that nothing happened.

“Is there a camera here?” After confirming, a model took off his underwear. This is just a small clothing new product launch conference. She has long skirts and squats, but she doesn't have to take off her pants. But any one that may interfere with the appearance of the clothing in detail, she wants to rule out.

The show in December 2018 was prepared for nearly half a year. At 7 o'clock in the evening, the models arrived at the Bulgari Hotel in Beijing at 10 am. "There are really few opportunities. The competition is really big. I don't have a show every day, I shoot every day." Pano, 25, said, "Maybe there is a show in a week, a big show in a month, then So many people are going to compete."

She stood at the end of the second team, with a black dress, slender eyes, and an upward curvature of the lips. A typical oriental girl's face looked younger. The golden age of 16 to 20 years old has passed, and Panno has not gone abroad for two years. She won the championship in a model competition of the Chinese character. She was sent abroad by the company in the second year. She did not speak English, but she went to New York, London, Paris and Milan for four consecutive fashion weeks.

At the moment, she can only commit herself to the space on the second floor of the hotel, separated by black velvet, more than 20 square meters, and dress up with other models to wait for rehearsal. They are new clothes that have not yet been put into mass production, and the replaced clothes are randomly piled on the sofa.

More than half a month ago, Panno was still preparing for the fashion show called "The Great Show" at the Shanghai World Expo Center. The venue is as large as six football fields, and the 40-meter-high glass wall is hung with “Dolce&Gabbana The Great Show”. The big show of Italian luxury brand, with a huge momentum, wants to explore and pay tribute to Chinese culture, Panno is the model of the third group of "Chinese New Year" unit, wearing a black dress with white pearls.

On the day of the rehearsal, Panno came on stage from the stage, the lights were on, and there was light music in the show, which can only be heard in the New Year. She likes to imagine stories for each show. She imagined that The Great Show was shopping with friends and walking on the road. Everyone greeted each other and met each other. Like the real New Year, there was nothing to worry about on the face.

The reality is obviously not so carefree.

The dreams of these models on that day were like the crystal clear water in the fragile glass. As everyone knows, the glass was broken and splashed. As for the fashion show that died, people can think of pieces. For example, the rehearsal of the previous day began at 3 pm, and more than 300 people waited for two hours on the sidelines. "The Wuyang Wuyang, except for the interview, have not seen so many people"; for example, the echoes in the show are too loud, the models Can not understand the command of the show, the show had to take 360 ​​models one by one, explain the route; for example, the rehearsal continued until midnight, the models ran to the stands in the middle of the night to sleep, a broker feeling "black circles and Eye bags, it is now the standard of the model"; for example, the staff shouted the scorpion and shouted the models lined up, but almost no one moved; such as the girl crying in the hotel lobby.

Emotions are more turbulent than waves, coming faster and going faster. The models that were wrapped up, not yet turned, have not seen the traces of those emotions, only the trivial and mediocrity of survival. In a month, when people who are experienced talk about this matter, they are also enthusiastic and cautious. At the beginning, those who were filled with indignation and enemies had already dispersed, and it seemed that nothing happened. Everything seems to have restored the calm and the calm that the models have to accept.

Waiting, waiting

"When was the last time you went to the TOP show?"

Panno turned to look at the staff and turned back: "Do you want to change a question?"

"The last time I went to the TOP show, she was almost forgotten." The staff said later.

“TOP Show” is an unofficial division, which is organized by luxury brands or famous commercial brands and designers. The model is selected by the industry's authoritative casting director and the model of the authoritative stylist is called “TOP Show”. . Among them, France's Dior, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Italy's Gucci, Prada, the United States' Calvin Klein, etc. are the top of the pyramid "blue blood show."

Panno’s last high-profile catwalk was a high-definition week in Paris a year and a half ago. Judging from the official Weibo news of her company, Panno's activities in the past two years are mostly domestic fashion weeks, magazines and advertising. This girl, who is emotionally stable and always laughs, has not been interviewed for a while, "walking on the street." On November 21st, she was a long-lost TOP show.

This is especially true for the 20-year-old male model Chen Baili. This sophomore is one meter tall and eight-eighth. He has practiced aerobics for two and a half years. The metal cross earrings make his face look more angular and more fashionable. "I am dry skin, it is easy to get acne after a long night. I also applied a mask before today." He sat down and rubbed his face. On the morning of the big show, Chen Baili got up at seven o'clock and found that his forehead had a pimple. They are unevenly distributed, and two or three are particularly noticeable. They are coated with aloe vera gel and covered with bangs. During the ten-hour rehearsal, Chen Baili walked two times on the stage, two minutes each time, and the rest of the time was waiting. "Most of the time, you are just there, feel the atmosphere."

That is also the atmosphere that the models have been waiting for – 40 stars, 500 sets of clothes, 1,500 spectators, enough visibility, large enough. More importantly, it selects enough models for China, especially in the off-season in November, the domestic and international fashion weeks have passed, this is a rare job opportunity.

The interview lasted two days in Shanghai and Beijing. After the data card screening, there are still thousands of models to participate in the interview. Chen Baili especially wanted to go, just happened to be filmed that day. He arrived ten minutes before the start of the interview. There are more than 300 people in the model company in Beijing's East Fourth Ring. Tian Xiaoran changed clothes and went in a circle. The interviewer sitting in the middle told another person: "I think she's OK. (I think she is very good.)" She heard almost, and she ran to tell the agent.

After arriving in Beijing in April 2017, Tian Xiaoran lived in a model apartment. There is a double bed and a single bed, and at most three people live, but more often, she lives alone or two. Roommates will change every two months, and they will go back to school to continue studying or going abroad for a show. In the first two months, Tian Xiaoran never got a job, and her parents gave her 2,000 monthly living expenses. She kept looking at the photography, and no one told her where the problem was. "Maybe I am still a child."

Waiting and waiting, it became the biggest normal in her career and other models.

After more than a year, Tian Xiaoran finally waited for the opportunity to take the big show. Three days before the interview, she began to quit snacks. She only ate five full meals, one meter and seventy-five, and lost about 97 pounds. A week later, she lost three or four pounds. Chen Baili added strength training to maintain skin condition and body lines on the basis of one and a half hours of fitness every day.

“Do you know why models can be called models?” asked model agent Jeffery. He is not tall, and he can't talk about the body curve, but he is very sensitive to the data related to the body. Seeing a girl, he claimed to be able to distinguish 177 cm or 178 cm in height, or 81 cm or 82 cm in hips, sometimes even to 0.5 cm.

The enthusiastic and refined man quickly asked himself: "You see the model in the store. Why is it that all the clothes are good to him? Because he is a fixed size, you should be the same size as him. You just move, there is life, just serve the clothes."

Three days before the big show, the Dolce & Gabbana brand appointed two models to be taken with him, but the price was compressed to one-third of the show in Paris and Milan. Jeffery felt that the price was "unacceptable" and did not agree. Soon, the other party sent an email to cancel the model Doka Bangna Haute Couture show in December 2018 and January 2019. "If you think that your model can get so much money from the Italian show, sorry, we can't. If she doesn't do this show, I am very sorry, we no longer plan to work with this girl." He opened the mailbox and said.

Anyway, you are always being picked.

A model company in Beijing originally had 28 models to pass the interview, but in the end only went to 24, in addition to the reasons for the conflict, there are prices. In 2003, the company was established. The general manager, Bai Lei, was as tall and thin as the model. From the fashion design to the model company manager, after fifteen years, the low-price competition in the industry has intensified. “The price of the model has barely increased.” The new face is in the domestic catwalk, the price is generally around 3,000 yuan, once you go back to the international fashion week and come back, the price can rise to tens of thousands.

Male models are far less than female models in the industry, meaning that their job opportunities and income are far lower than female models. When Chen Baili first went to Paris Menswear Week to interview Alexander McQueen, the interviewer showed great interest in him and left him. In the same period, he also went to interview Yamamoto Yoji. "This is more like going to participate." A month before going to Paris, a photographer selected Chen Baili as a model when he photographed the work of tribute to Yamamoto. The photographer deliberately selected two photos for him to take the interview. The interviewer was surprised to say "I was originally you" on the spot, and it was amazed and happy. But in the end, Chen Baili was not selected, not even left to take pictures - this is often seen as an interviewer interested in the interviewer.

"Models are passive, and you are always being chosen anyway," Panno said. She once went to a brand to try out a lot of models, and there were five or six models in each dress to try together. She tried one of them. When the final rehearsal was held, the brand said that the clothes were gone and were given to others. Panno felt particularly lost, but no one took this into account. She also talked about a peer story - a domestic foreign brand show, the model has been in the background to make makeup waiting for the show, suddenly someone came in to tell her that your clothes do not seem to be in this series, so you There is no such performance. "She is crying on the street."

Sometimes Panno wants to ask the other person. What is the reason for not choosing yourself? But never asked. “Everyone is very busy.” No one told them what to do. These young boys and girls can only work alone, even wear out themselves slowly, and exchange them on the stage for ten hours, ten days or even ten months. Two minutes. "You have to be a good person, let others think that you are not a big guy, not a squeamy." This model, which has been a big show for 5 years, tried to do so so that it has always been liked by brands.

She admits that she, like other models, "will value every show." Most of the time the industry chose them, not because they chose the industry.

"A performance event, most of the entertainment stars receive the full or part of the appearance fee and then go to participate, according to the rules. If the model, even if the first payment of half of the appearance fee is insufficient, even the big reversal, of course, this time there is no In the fifteen years of the modeling industry, Belle felt unfair.

After Chen Kun first announced that he would not attend the D&G show, more people expressed their disappointment and people applauded their actions on social networks. But for models, exit is not a tough choice, but it means having to take on more difficult outcomes. In addition to "losing a chance, nothing was done", like Chen Baili may go overseas to develop, the golden age is limited, miss a big show, "maybe there is no direct play."

"You apologize, you sincerely apologize, you apologize." Tian Xiaoran, who was anxiously waiting in the field, thought so. There are many dust in the venue, and Tian Xiaoran's skin has formed many closed mouths. She knows that her skin is not good. For the model, the skin is the most important. In the suitcase that came to Shanghai, she had skin care products in half a box.

"Although I said sorry afterwards, but why not say it earlier, I have to make this happen." After more than half a month, Tian Xiaoran sat in the coffee shop and shook his head. She will send every catwalk and photos taken in a circle of friends. It was not until July 2017 that she received the first settlement salary, 10,000. She immediately bought a few bottles of skin care products, as well as a mask, after she had no money to buy a mask. She is waiting for her next job.

Hi new and old is the essence of this industry

At this time, the Shanghai World Expo Center has not seen any traces related to the big show. The chairs on both sides of the show floor on the second floor of the Bulgari Hotel in Beijing are filled with people, and the lighting is designed to leak light from the clouds. Panno's hair was neatly combed to his head, and the white veil was put on it, replaced with a white high-dressed dress, which was particularly brightly reflected by the light. She walked back and forth on the beat, and soon fell into the background without light.

The 22 girls who walked on the white stage, the makeup was exquisite, the face was small and the limbs were slender. At this time, you can strongly perceive the correctness of the sentence: the model is the god to eat. And more often, you will find that the new and old is the essence of this industry.

In each season's fashion show, about one-third of new faces will appear, meaning that the same proportion of models will be replaced. In fact, unless it is good enough, the next time the interviewer sees the card, it is still just a close-up photo, a full body photo, height and measurements. "There is nothing else," Jeffery said.

Jeffery's WeChat circle of friends is a group photo of Tian Xiaoran and five other models on the Dior show, wearing a white bathrobe and making a cat-like eye makeup. Tian Xiaoran’s Huanren is naturally dark and often suspected of wearing a beautiful woman. A few days before preparing for the D&G show, she took a picture of her favorite magazine. "This film is just right, everything is perfect, it is not too hard to use your eyes, just good, perfect." The face in the photo is different from left to right, with a slight suffocation and a slight gentleness. When I saw Tian Xiaoran in the model competition in 2017, Jeffery took photos of the mobile phones one by one. Later, he told Tian Xiaoran: "As soon as I saw your side, I knew that you were the best here." Soon, Tian Xiaoran interviewed the opportunity to take the Dior fashion show.

"They always use the face, if you like it, suddenly there is a day that you don't like it, you don't need it, you can't accept it directly." Agent Yu Qiao said, "The frustration is too strong, every day. Being selected, every day is being judged by people.” Yu Qiao’s company is one of the few companies that are willing to say a few words after the incident.

Before the plane took off at 1 pm on the same day, she called the general manager of the company, Bei Lei: "The models are all excited, they don't want to play, ask if the company can strike?" When the plane landed, things developed almost as soon as she expected. - The fashion show, which was prepared for half a year, was cancelled.

An hour before leaving the Shanghai World Expo Center, the companion told Chen Baili the news and asked what to do. Chen Baili just put on his shoes: "Let's see it again." Panno held the shoes and waited for an hour and a half, she kept looking at that. Double crystal-like shoes, "It's heel carved like a little man on the shoes, I haven't looked at them before, it's so beautiful."

Panno’s more collapse on the spot was: “What is my previous work?” And for those with more junior qualifications, it’s even more cruel, the first time in the career or even the last time to participate in the big show, That's it. In 20 minutes, the crowd left, almost everyone was walking out, slowly and quietly. It was raining outside, and the red carpet at the entrance had been laid on the ground, leaving a layer of plastic film uncovered. A model for this diet and weight loss continued to eat a whole pack of chips during the waiting period. The makeup team’s staff and the model hugged goodbye, the latter said in his ear: “I'm sad about my hair.” There is a taboo in the industry. If you don’t pay extra, the stylist can’t cut or dye the model’s hair. Because this is part of the model's beauty. Many models without formal brokerage companies broke the taboos and compressed the living space of other practitioners.

The best way for brokers and brokerage firms to survive is to continually introduce new ones instead of relying on those ones. "For example, if you take a CCTV model contest, you take it today, and tomorrow will be forgotten because there are so many model contests in China."

Brokers need to prove their vision by finding great new people. Model companies have their own preferred cities, mostly concentrated in the north, Shandong, Henan or Shaanxi. In October 2017, Jeffery ran ten cities, met four or five thousand tall girls, and found that there were very few good model conditions. Later, he saw a Fujian girl on the WeChat circle of friends, did not learn to walk and did not learn to perform. He asked the other person to take a photo, and decided to sign it in May 2018 and was sure she would be in the next season.

"Every season I have to come up with my weapons." Jeffery is always in a position to be.

For the selected models, Jeffery has further requirements, including verbally letting them not fall in love. If you think of a new person model as a jade, then "there are a lot of things you need to sculpt, polish, and finally you get what the customer presents. He is a commodity." This kind of carving will condense into three sentences more often: you must be thin, your skin must not have problems, you have to learn English well.

In addition, they are expected to shine on the big show, and they still need an optimistic mood and self-suggestion. On the day when the people flowed out, a female model with a short-necked haircut first discovered when she left the venue. The original "great" was also an ironic word. The industry in which they are located is "such a full of expectations and disappointing." But almost all the men and women who walked on this road could not resist the glamour and novelty of the industry.

“Everyone is working hard to create,” Jeffery said. “You can see all sorts of weird thinking.”